Sunday, January 31, 2010

More about Curves

As an addendum to my post on curves and radii, I took a few pictures of the Kato Zephyr around various curves to demonstrate how the degree of curve affects appearance. Apologies that the lighting/composition is poor, but hopefully they still illustrate the concept. Here is the Zephyr circling the 18" staging loop (about 24˚):


In particular, look to the left of the photo where you see two cars connected at a sharp angle. That just doesn't happen in the prototype.

Here is the Zephyr around a gentler mainline curve of 41" radius (about 10.5˚, still very sharp by prototype standards):


Here is the Zephyr around a short mainline curve of 51" radius (about 8.4˚, still sharp by prototype standards, but now within the domain of a realistic curve):

One problem fixed

The feeder wire problem from yesterday has been fixed. This took a while -- eventually I admitted that I couldn't reach the original location of the feeder wire, as this was on the back side of the staging loop, so I re-soldered it at a location near the joiner:


The problem of access to the back parts of the staging is something I'm going to have to solve, as this may also be an issue on the corners of the main layout. Probably I'll need to get a Topside Creeper one day.

Meanwhile, there was another problem I listed in last night's post, but I've since re-edited that post to remove it. I thought the PM42 was misbehaving but it turned out I just failed to plug in its power when I moved the power cabinet back into place. Oops. I was surprised that without the power the PM42 still passes on current to the tracks.

Saturday, January 30, 2010

Saturday Night

It's Saturday night and I've finished all the tasks that I targeted for completion by end of day Sunday.

  1. The power cabinet shelves are in place -- screwed in for extra stability.
  2. The re-wiring underneath the south end of the layout is complete. When I explained to my son what I planned to do -- essentially convert the wiring from the original wiring standard to the new standard he said "that will take a long time." In truth, it takes about half as long as it takes to wire a new section. The feeder wires above the layout are unchanged, unless I have to add extra pairs of feeders due to new gaps for the power district boundaries (I had to add one this time). I do need to increase the number of power terminals and rewire the power bus as a result, and the feeder wires below the layout need to be reconnected, relabeled, and for half of them, converted to a red wire.
In addition, Daniel has been very busy fixing all the "to be repaired" cars in the project boxes, as well as repairing couplers on a few locomotives. He's done this so well, and seems to enjoy it so much, that I plan to start him on some decoder installs next, then ease him into the more difficult domain of locomotive repair. If this continues we'll get far more done on the layout this winter than I had thought possible.

On the negative side I've found two new problems. One of the track repair areas has proven to still be iffy. It looks like that track will need to be removed and replaced entirely. I think I'll choose that as the starting point for my Sunday scenery project (more on that in a moment), so that I can address two tasks at once.

The other issue is that as I started cleaning the middle tier return loop in staging a feeder wire came loose. Simple in concept, but it's a hard-to-reach area.

However, with all that out of the way I have a relatively free day tomorrow to tackle train stuff. My plan is to try to figure a way to make the Peco code 55 track on the mainline look like modern track with concrete ties. A couple years ago I started this project and came pretty close. I used various model spray paints for the tie color, then added rust color for the rail sides and the tie anchors. Once done I added some dull coat and other weathering to make it look realistic. In the end all looked good except the ties. They tended to look too yellow and also the fake wood grain showed through.

Today I took some pictures of real concrete ties near our home. Here's an example:



Tomorrow I'm going to visit Home Depot and try to find a latex paint color that matches the concrete. Latex paint has a number of advantages. First, a quart costs as much as 3 or 4 tiny jars of model railroad paint from a hobby shop. Second, the latex creates a smooth coat over the surface, likely hiding things like the fake wood grain on ties. And if it is TOO thick, you can thin it with water.

This is just an experiment, but I have quite a few scenery books that suggest latex paint for a variety of projects, so it's worth a try.

There are other factors regarding the simulation of concrete ties, but I won't cover them today. My first goal will be just to get the surface looking correct.

Friday, January 29, 2010

DCC order

As I noted earlier, I had an email conversation Thursday with Mike Gleaton at Charleston Digital Trains and got some good advice on the power management module.
I then sent in the following order:

  1. PSX4 Power District Circuit Breaker. This the the power management module I decided on. Mike suggested that I probably could get by with the cheaper Digitrax PM42, since N scale with its lower voltage and amperage generally won't run into the same problems HOers commonly report with the PM42. But given my less than positive experience with the PM42 I opted for the upgrade.
  2. UR92 Duplex Radio Tranceiver. Last year Digitrax released the long-rumored two-way radio communication system. Previously the one-way system meant that you had to plug in the radio throttle to change locomotives. The UR92 is the radio base station for the two way. I'll still keep my two one-way UR91s for any one-way throttles I or my visitors may have.
  3. DT402D Duplex Super Radio Throttle. This is the latest and greatest Digitrax throttle, with upgraded functions relative to the DT400R *and* two-way radio communication. As I had only one DT400R I've been wanting to get a second one "someday", and now that my son, father, and I are actually running trains the need for an extra throttle has become apparent. One other nice thing is that Digitrax can upgrade my DT400R to a DT402D (as noted at the bottom of the linked page), which is something I'll do after I receive my new DT402D and get it running.
  4. DN163K2 N Scale Mobile Decoder. This was something I included "as long as I am making an order anyway". I have a Kato SD90/43MAC I got last year which needs a decoder, so this will be it.
Meanwhile, progress continues on my remaining tasks for the week. All the bad track areas are now fixed, I bought the extra shelves for the power cabinet (just have to trim them to fit and install them), leaving me only with the rewiring under layout in the area above the power cabinet. My son and I are also fixing up some cars with minor repair issues that I've been ignoring. So we should have everything on the target list done by Sunday, and even some things not on the list.

Fun, fun, fun

Quick update. First news: we're adding a few more trains and running them. This shows my son adding some cars last night:


I've also made progress on the task list that I mentioned in my last post. Two of the three track problems are resolved. I've ordered the power management module and a few cool new DCC components, which I'll describe in a post when they arrive next week. Since I don't have a DCC programming track set up yet I've started using ops-mode programming, which allows you to change the CVs (configuration variables) for DCC locomotives while they are on the main track. This is so darn convenient that in the future I'll probably only need the programming track for problem diagnosis. Not sure why I took so long to try this feature.

Here's a picture of the power cabinet as it exists right now:


So, obviously there is still a lot left to do, but first let me describe what has been done. The cabinet itself is in place, with rollers on the bottom to allow it to be moved out easily for access underneath the layout. You can't see it in the picture, but in order to fit the cabinet underneath I had to saw a slot at the back of the cabinet, on the top, to fit it around a diagonal brace. One nice side effect is that this prevents the cabinet from moving unintentionally. The cabinet is placed right in front of an outlet.

What I have yet to do is work out how all the components will fit inside the cabinet and finalize the wiring. Actually I don't think I can truly finalize the arrangement until we've operated for a while and seen what components need frequent access, as those should be near the front and top. However, after the power management module arrives next week I'll work out a semi-permanent solution, saving room for future components.

One thing I am sure I'll want is more shelves, so today I'll stop by Home Depot and buy two more. This is a standard Home Depot upper cabinet, intended for installation above a surface, but I've adapted it for under-layout usage by changing the handle locations and adding rollers underneath.

So, we're on track to complete all planned tasks by end of weekend.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Problem Log

I've finished cleaning the staging area so that I can now run trains on all tracks and have set up 3 trains to run for testing. As expected problems have been found, but so far *none* with the newly built staging track and switches (I expect this to change as the usage intensity increases).

I've created a Problem Log in Excel to record what needs to be done and keep a record of past issues. So far 3 problems have been noted with the track on the main layout. Two of these are where the main layout connects to upper staging, and will require relaying the track. The other is probably a switch cleaning issue. (Note on my post last year about switch frogs I mention that electric frogs are susceptible to losing electrical contact -- I think that is the issue here.) One intermittent coupler problem has been found between a car and a locomotive. And 3 engine problems have been found -- actually I knew about them before, but rediscovered them when I tried those engines again.

My intent is to use the Problem Log as a means of dealing with issues as they come up. This isn't the same as a preventive maintenance log, which I'll need to start as well. I have a roster sheet and I'll add some maintenance columns to that.

Otherwise this week hasn't been as productive as last week due to distractions from work, starting with a business trip. I was able to use some of the off-time on the trip to write up the post on curves and to start work on the next design posts for the iNdoor layout. I have another business trip next week so hope to complete those on that trip.

However, I do need goals to keep going. By the end of this coming weekend I want to have:

  1. Fixed the known track issues,
  2. Decided on and ordered the power management module (circuit breaker) from Mike Gleaton,
  3. Sort out the wiring on the south end of the layout, adjacent to staging, so that it conforms with the newer wiring standards,
  4. And buy and install two more shelves for the power cabinet (it has only two now).
For next week I will install the power management module, initially treating staging as one power district and the rest of the layout as the second district, but with the expectation that this will change as the layout grows. After that is done I should be able to organize the components in the power cabinet into a semi-permanent configuration, with room to grow. Both of those can happen next week and leave time for other stuff.

From there I have a few choices as to next steps, but I'm leaning towards picking up a task I started maybe two years ago and never completed, which is to figure out how to scenic the track on the main layout. There are some special requirements here, which I'll cover in a separate post, and I feel I really should understand the solution before I lay any more mainline track.

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

A Degree in Curves


What has to be out of scale in even the most spacious layouts? The
curves! – John Armstrong, The Classic Layout Designs of John Armstrong, p. 74.

On my post on my 4th, experimental layout I mentioned that I ran into an issue with curve radii. In this post I’ll describe the results of the subsequent research I undertook on curves.

First, of all there are two types of limitations for model railroad curve radii: operational and aesthetic. Our model trains are designed to be able to negotiate much, much tighter curves than prototype trains, so there has been a lot of published work addressing operational limitations. I’ll cite some of that work here, but my main concern is the aesthetic side.

Operational radii limitations

In his terrific book, Track Planning for Realistic Operation, John Armstrong discusses radii limits on pages 73-77 and provides this table:


Armstrong goes on to define each type of curve by the type of equipment you can reliably run on it. (A much more detailed table is provided by the NMRA, standard RP-11, for those trying to find the absolute minimum curves for their situation.)

In his book John Armstrong also provided a great suggestion for pushing these operational limits, demonstrating that the main issue with tight radii occurs when transitioning from tangent (straight) track to curved track. That is the point where the curve places the most strain on couplers and axles and is most likely to cause derailments or decoupling. Armstrong called that the “coefficient of lurch”, and showed how spiral easements – a section of track that transitions from curve to tangent – can reduce the coefficient of lurch and allow a tighter radius than would otherwise be possible. On page 75 he shows an example where an 18” radius HO curve with spiral easement creates less stress on the train than a 24” radius curve without the easement.

I highly recommend this section of Armstrong’s book for anyone who is trying to squeeze tight, but operationally sound, curves into a layout. Actually, I highly recommend the whole book for anyone interested in getting serious about layout design.

Aesthetic radii limitations

When you are building layouts with curves that test the limits of how tight curves can go you don’t worry about the aesthetics of how trains look going around the curves. I mean, it’s pretty obvious that an HO train going around a 15” curve or an N scale train around a 9” curve don’t look anything like the prototype, with the trucks turned at extreme angles and the ends of the cars hanging far over the sides of the track. You know it looks wrong, but due to space limitations that’s just something you deal with. That’s the situation I was in with my first 3 HO layouts.

At some point you may decide that for your NEXT layout things will be different. That’s how I was with my 4th layout, my first N scale experiment. I was still dealing with a 4x8 space, but now in N scale. A 17” radius curve in HO scale is very sharp, per the Armstrong table above, but in N scale it’s a broad curve. So I built a bunch of 17” curves, and even built one curve to 20” radius just to see how a “very broad radius” curve looked. But as I watched the trains go around it something slowly dawned on me. Yes, the trains did not look as ridiculously toy-like as they did on very sharp curves, but even the 20” curve was still obviously way too tight.

Fortunately, John Armstrong also wrote a lot about the aesthetics of railroad curves (the quote at the start of this post was how he began one article) and that gave me some good information to start my research. First, the conventional measure of how sharp a curve is, at least in the U.S., is degrees of curve, which is how far a curve would go around a circle in a 100 foot arc. For example, suppose you had a circle with a 400 foot circumference. Then 100 feet of arc would cover 1/4th of the circle, or 90˚ (since a full circle is comprised of 360˚).

Prototype railroads naturally try very hard to limit curves – both the frequency of them and the sharpness – because curves add drag to the locomotive pulling a train much the same way that upward slopes do. Many mainlines get by with curves no sharper than 2˚ and in flat country a 5˚ curve may be unusual. The famed horseshoe curve on the Pennsylvania Railroad came in at 9.25˚, which Armstrong saw as the standard for comparing mainline curve sharpness. Finding curves sharper than that on standard gauge mainlines is hard – up to 12˚ can be found in a few areas with difficult topology and/or congested urban areas, and anything above that is rare. Narrow gauge commonly went much tighter – the Rio Grande lines typically had 24˚ as their maximum curve sharpness, and one famous narrow gauge curve in Utah was an incredible 60˚. But narrow gauge trains also typically ran at very slow speeds with very short cars

So how does this compare to our model empires? Well, a 5˚ curve in HO requires an astounding 158” radius—that’s over 13 feet. 10˚ is a little better at 79”, but that’s still over 6.5’ – and if you tried a U-shaped curve with that you’d need a diameter of over 13’. N scale is much better, but 10˚ is still about 43” radius – over 3.5’.

To better understand how model railroad radii compare to the prototype you can construct a simple spreadsheet table. Here is a small sample of a table I created in Excel:


In order to create this yourself, put the radii in the left column (A), then put the following formulae in columns B and C:

=((1200/160)*180)/(3.1416*A[row#])
=((1200/87)*180)/(3.1416*A[row#])

To explain each element in the formula:

  1. “1200” is the number of inches in 100 feet. 100 feet is the length of the arc that we use as the basis for the degree measurement. When measuring for large scale you’ll want to use feet as the measurement, so change this to 100.

  2. 160” or “87” is the scale you are using, in this case N and HO respectively. Substitute 48 for O scale, 220 for Z, etc.

  3. 180 is the number of degrees in a semi-circle. You might think we’d use 360 for a full circle, but because we are basing this formula on radius, which is half a diameter, we cut the number of degrees in half as well.

  4. 3.1416 is an approximation for π.

  5. The “A[row#]” is the number of inches in the radius. When measuring for large scale change this quantity to feet – and do the same for (1) above.
It helps to create such a table yourself because it gives you a chance to play with the numbers and see the possibilities for your situation. But no matter how you slice the numbers you’ll see why John Armstrong made the statement which started this post – with curve radii the difference between the model and the prototype is just huge.

Out of doors the situation isn’t quite so bad, although it is still challenging. With large scale minimum radii are measured in feet, not inches. If you model the narrow gauge Rio Grande, as I am doing, the 24˚ minimum translates to a bit under 12’ radius in 1:20.3 F scale, which means a half-circle turnaround requires a diameter of about 23.5’. That’s still a lot of space, but doable on many outdoor lots.

For indoor layouts John Armstrong recommended that model railroaders set a minimum radius based primarily on operational requirements, but that they made sure to include one curve of realistic gentleness – 10˚ or less – for aesthetics. This is a good recommendation, but there are also other things you can do with regard to curve radii, and I cover those in the next section.

Dealing with unrealistically tight curves

Here is a short catalog of things people have done, or can do, in response to the realization that model railroad curves look unrealistically tight. These are not independent solutions, as it is possible to use a combination of any or all of these solutions on a given layout for different situations.

  1. Ignore the problem

    Seriously, if it doesn’t bother you don’t worry about it. We have to make a lot of other compromises in our make-believe empires. Alas, for me this doesn’t work … for me many a picture of an otherwise terrific model railroad has had the illusion spoiled by an curve that is obviously too sharp. This depends entirely on your personal preference.


  2. Hide the problem

    This is probably the most common solution, other than #1. Put the curve under a tunnel or behind a viewblock. I did this with my second and third layouts (well, that is I would have if I’d completed the scenery) and if done well it can also hide the overly short consists we tend to run on our smaller layouts.

    However, this is not perfect. Except for switches, curves are where most derailments occur, so you have to arrange some kind of access to those tracks. Depending on your chosen model theme the viewblocks and tunnels may seem out-of-place (the original Rio Grande was positively allergic to tunnels, for example), so you may be introducing an element that doesn’t look appropriate for the scene. And finally, for smaller layouts, like my third one, hiding all the curve track ends up hiding the majority of track, which may not be as pleasing as you thought it would be when you started.


  3. Disguise the problem

    This is different than hiding the problem in that you leave the curves out in the open but control the optical viewing angles to make the curve sharpness less obvious.

    The most common way to do this is to move the layout to eye level or near eye level, and the second most common is to arrange the track so that viewers can see the train only from the inside of the curve, not the outside. When used together this makes it almost impossible to assess just how sharp the curve is.

    The eye level trick, by itself, certainly helps because the viewer can’t look down on an empty track and see how obviously sharp it is. In fact, this also helps disguise unrealistic “spaghetti track” formations because the viewer only sees the side of the nearest track. However, eye level doesn’t help quite so much when the viewer is on the outside of a tight curve, as the angle between cars tends to be a visual giveaway.

    Also, eye level layouts are the subject of one of the hobby’s great debates. Proponents love them because “you see trains just as you do in real life”. Critics (and I am one) argue that in “real life” we often seek out platforms from which we can look down on trains and get a better view, so a view from above is actually a good thing. Furthermore, we argue, if you want the eye level view you can still get it with a lower layout by bending or sitting down. Lastly, not everyone has the same eye level, and shorter people and children tend to get short changed with layouts set at 66” or so above the floor. I’ve noticed in recent years a trend away from the eye-level traveling layouts that were prevalent 10 or so years ago.

    The view-from-inside-the-curve trick is useful anytime, even from higher levels, although it’s most effective at eye-level. Unfortunately you can’t always limit your layout to only inside-the-curve views – and in many cases you can only build outside-the-curve views, such as with a rectangular-shaped show layout. However, if you have an inside-the-curve view you can take advantage of that to use a smaller aesthetic radius than you use elsewhere.


  4. Build layouts that require minimal curves

    Tight curves are only a problem if you need curves. A long industrial, point-to-point shelf layout doesn’t need them, for example, except for very short lengths. Or if your layout requires only one or two U-turn curves you can hide those (per point 2 above) and emphasize the rest, including building straight track over the hidden curves.


  5. Choose curvy prototypes

    Kind of the opposite of (4). Instead of choosing a layout theme that requires no curves, choose a prototype that had lots of very tight curves that you can either match exactly, or perhaps model just a little bit tighter.

    Two very obvious examples of this are narrow gauge railroads, which as mentioned above commonly had curves of 24˚ or tighter, and trolley systems, which were made to negotiate curves around street corners. Also popular for modelers are the common industrial short lines of the last century, run by very short steam, diesel or even electrical locomotives, that moved shortish (50’ in length or less) cars amidst very congested commercial districts.

    These types of prototypes are popular for many reasons, but certainly one key reason is that they fit into our layout rooms without having to compromise the curves.

    The only problem with this solution – as with solution (4) – is that it only applies to certain layout themes. If you want a layout featuring heavy mainline traffic these solutions don’t apply.


  6. Convert to a smaller scale

    Admittedly this is not a viable option in most situations, since most people have a strong reason for choosing a given scale and often already have a sizable stock of items in that scale. But this can be a really useful design trick when viable. Alternatively, you can use this same trick by forcing yourself to design a layout for your space in a larger scale, then switch to your own scale.

    You see, most people try to cram as much layout as they can into a given space (count me as one of those guilty of that sin). Double the space available and few of us will simply expand the same basic concept to the new space, but instead most of us will try to add more towns, yards, and industries. But what if you struggled through a given layout design for a limited space, making the normal sorts of compromises before finally getting a design that you think you could live with, and suddenly someone offered you 3.5 times the space – or even 7 times the space? What if instead of trying to cram more into that space, you decided to keep your previous design but simply apply it to the larger space, using longer trains, more space between towns, and larger radii?

    To see what this might look like, consider John Armstrong’s famous personal layout, the Canandaigua Southern. He chose O scale, which was still very common in the 1940s when he started the layout. Here is a map of that layout taken from the March 1971 Model Railroader:


    John spent a lot of time designing this, a process he described in an article which can be found today starting on page 46 of The Classic Layout Designs of John Armstrong book mentioned earlier. Like all of us, he had to make compromises to fit everything in. He settled on a minimum radius of 48”, which is about 30˚ in O scale, and of course accepted shorter consists and a smaller yard than he probably would have liked. The fact that all track was handlaid meant it still took him decades to complete the line, with only partial scenery, but nevertheless the layout gave over 50 years of enjoyment to Armstrong and the large number of his friends who helped him build and operate it.

    Now imagine you had exactly the same room, with exactly the same layout, with curves and towns at exactly the same location, but this time you worked in N scale. That 48” minimum radius now gets you curves of slightly under 9˚! You can triple – or more – the number of tracks in the yard and the length of your trains. Or, if you don’t want to add that much length to your trains, you can increase the apparent distance between towns.

    Consider that Armstrong’s personal layout is universally considered a great success. Not just because it was so innovative (which it was – no other layout has pioneered so many influential design concepts as this one did) but because it was FUN for all involved. An N scale layout, in the same space with the same essential design, would generate just as much fun, but the trains would look much more realistic.

    So, apply that example to another layout. Let’s suppose you’ve designed an HO layout for your available space but you’ve got some nagging concerns. Now try doing the exact same layout in exactly the same space, but in N scale. Wow. You’ll have the same schematic but with a lot more room. Or, suppose you can’t change scale. Instead force yourself to design a layout for a space of about ½ of what you actually have, then after you polish it, convert to the space you actually have.


  7. Set very high minimum radii during the design phase

    So, you’ve tried everything else, but you still don’t have a solution that works for you. You care about getting realistic curves (otherwise #1 would work for you) but for various reasons none of the suggestions given above work: you can’t hide/disguise the curves, the prototype you want won’t permit you to use tight curves realistically, you can’t move to a smaller scale, and the trick of pretending to have a smaller space than you really do doesn’t work for you.

    If this is your situation, then you are where I was in 2003 and 2004. So I tried something else. Most layout design books will recommend that as an early design step you set some standards, such as “minimum switch size”, “track spacing”, “maximum train length”, and of course “minimum radius”. These standards may vary depending on situation – such as separate standards for mainline, branches, yards, and staging— but within a given category they are the basis for your design.

    So, set your “minimum radius” standard to a very high number and see what kind of layout you can design. For me I chose 48” as an N scale minimum and started trying to design layouts using that as a rule. It was enlightening in a way that can only be understood when you actually try to do it – as opposed to reading about it. Consider, for example, an around-the-walls kind of layout. A 48” minimum can easily be used in curves in the corners, but this means that the tangent track between two corners will be a full 4’ shorter than if you use a 24” minimum curve and 5’ shorter than using an 18” minimum. Let’s suppose you have a 12’x12’ room and that you generally keep track at least 6” from the walls. This means that if you use an 18” minimum radius the longest tangent track you can have between two corners is 10’ but that for a 48” minimum radius the longest tangent track is only half of that.

    That example describes only one of the early discoveries you’ll have. As you work more with the layout design you’ll discover ways to work with the larger radius curves, such as working switches into the 48” curves. Since 48” is a very gentle radius in model railroading terms transitions from curves to switches flow better, especially with spiral easements. And if you use a switch like the Peco code 55 “long”, which uses a 36” constant radius on the diverging route, or the Peco code 55 curved switch, which has 36” for the outside curve, the flow is even better.

    Eventually you may find that your ultra-wide radius is workable AND that the resulting track will flow much more easily. Of course, there will be sacrifices in terms of what you can include – there have to be – and only you can determine if the trade-off is worth it.
My personal solution

That concludes my discussion of options for modeling realistic curves. So what did I end up doing for my layouts?

For the iNdoor layout, after working with 48” for a while I tried 44” and 36” to see the difference in terms of layout planning. I then set up a number of curves with temporary track to view the appearance of trains on the various radii. What I discovered wasn’t surprising. While a difference of 5” makes a huge different in appearance for trains on small radii, such as going from 10” to 15” – it makes only an almost imperceptible difference in appearance in large radii, such as going from 43” to 48”. Once I recognized this I really had to question whether the benefit of going the extra effort for 40+” radii was worth the cost in terms of design trade-offs.

Eventually I settled on 36” as the absolute minimum for the mainline, with the understanding that I’d go above this as much as possible with each curve. This is about 12˚, which is still very good for a model railroad, and in a congested city setting is reasonable. Plus the fact that most curves are wider than that, with probably half at 40” or more, helps the appearance even more.

One other point is that in the prototype there are tight curves in special situations, such as congested yards and industries, and in those cases very slow speeds (10 mph) are required. One of my favorites is the curve leading from the Burlington race track line to Chicago’s Union station that I rode on as a youngster. I remember vividly how the coach trucks would squeal loudly going around that curve. For those situations I set a 24” minimum radius (18˚) and use it only in the approach to Union Station and in two local switching areas. I hope to one day include a sound system that duplicates the squeals of the wheels around those curves.

As you read this keep in mind that my personal minimums are on the extreme end for this hobby. In years of reading about layouts in magazines I’ve never seen any other layout with minimums this high. (One N scale layout in an oval-shaped dining room employed a lot of 48” curves along the curved walls, but also used 12” curves at a wall with a right angle.) Usually featured HO layouts have smaller minimum radii than I have for my N scale layout.

I do have smaller minimums in the hidden track, such as staging, since aesthetics are of no value there. However, I still stick to an 18” minimum in staging to aide in smooth operations to assure that I’ll always be able to run any equipment that I might acquire. (Note that the NMRA standard mentioned above states that 21.5” may be required for steam locomotives with a rigid scale 28’ wheel base. However, that standard is now over 20 years old. I know of no mass-produced N scale equipment built in the last 20 years that can’t run on a radius of 17” or less, so any exceptions are likely to be expensive custom-made brass imports, which I don’t bother with due to cost and difficulty running under DCC.)

For the outdoor layout the situation is different. There will be no staging, no hiding and no disguising. For the outdoor layout, what you see is what you get. Fortunately as I noted earlier my prototype, the narrow gauge Rio Grande, had a standard of 24˚ curves on the mainline so I should be able to duplicate that with an 11.75’ radius minimum. If I have to compromise in one or two spots in the freight yard to an 11’ or even 10’ radius I’ll still be within 28˚, which is also realistic for Rio Grande narrow gauge slow-speed operations. The key factor is that I’ll be running prototype narrow gauge cars from the 1880s, which were very short and thus looked appropriate around curves such as those.

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Design influences: 4th layout (my first N scale experiment)

I mentioned that in 2002 we revived the Märklin layout in the garage. This was definitely fun, especially for the kids, as the layout had plenty of track, locomotives, cars, switches, and an interesting main line. But at the same time I had some nagging doubts.

I'd transitioned from a non-active model railroader to a quasi-active armchair modeler in 2000. I'd started subscribing to Model Railroader, and later Garden Railways, and had attended the 2000 NMRA convention in San Jose with my older kids. As I learned more about the contemporary hobby I became interested again in American prototypes and in the finer details of modeling. The old Märklin layout, with it's European prototype and Märklin's tinplate heritage (such as the third rail and locomotive pickup shoe in the middle), wasn't quite what I'd been dreaming about. The other problem was that Märklin is very expensive relative to the competition, and especially so in the U.S.

So it came to pass that on my birthday weekend in 2002 my wife sent me and the kids off to buy $500 worth of Märklin stuff for the layout, which was enough for one locomotive and one freight car. I headed out towards Redwood City, where there was a European train shop and a restaurant with a playground, when suddenly I turned to the kids and said: "You know, for $500 we could build a whole new layout in N-scale, and anything we added to that would be much cheaper." The kids loved the idea (especially my son), so I turned the car around and headed for Santa Clara, home of The Train Shop, instead.

The inspiration to jump to N scale surprised me as much as anyone, but apparently the idea had been processing in my subconscious for a while. There were a number of factors that made this an easy decision:

  1. The space advantages of N scale were obvious. I'd first thought of N scale when strugging with the Märklin layout design in 1990. Given the tiny space I had to work with in our California home, N scale seemed like a good choice.
  2. I was ready to get out of Märklin, for the reasons stated above.
  3. I had little sunk cost in HO, or really anything except Märklin. All my old HO stuff was either really cheap (from the first layout) and out of date, or intended for the early 1900s (second layout) and not what I was interested in modeling now. My son had a very small selection of modern Bachmann HO, but not enough to make me stick to HO as a cost savings.
  4. Although N had not held my interest for most of my life, over the prior two years I been reading articles on N scale layouts and about N scale in general and saw a few really good ones. It now seemed viable to me.
At the Train Shop I was introduced to their N scale pro. I'd seen him before over the years, but never worked with him until then. He was extremely helpful. We started talking about track. He asked me about code 55 vs. 80 and I said 80 because I didn't want anything that might make operations more difficult (I regret this now, but then they didn't have Atlas code 55 then). He suggested Atlas flextrack with Peco switches, which is what his N trak club used, and I went with that. He introduced me to Tortoises, and helped me get various Atlas switch boxes and wires, and some cork roadbed. We talked about DCC, but the cost and hassle (they didn't have factory DCC then, and installs were often a challenge) made me opt for cab control He showed me a couple of power packs for that, then we looked at rolling stock.

My son loved the Kato Amtrack Superliner Phase III sets which had just come out, so we got two of those and two P42 engines. We also got an Atlas dash-8 BNSF locomotive (my son loved Santa Fe, I loved Burlington, so BNSF was the obvious compromise) and a variety of freight cars.

I got home, cleaned off my son's 4x8 table, and tried to figure out what to build. I decided it would be a quick-and-dirty, temporary layout with as long as possible a main line (now that I was in N scale I wanted long trains, not the very short trains I was forced into with HO scale), double track, with curves as broad as possible (again, now that I was out of HO scale I was looking forward to curves that were not ridiculously tight). Also there would be very few switches, as they didn't have many at the shop and I figured I could add them later. I would throw in easements and superelevation, two concepts I'd learned about from the magazines and had never tried before. Using scrap wood I got the whole thing complete in less than a week. It was a dogbone schematic, folded over three times into a figure 8 double track, switchbacking it's way up a mountain, and resulted in a main line loop of 120' in just a 4x8 space:


Honestly, it doesn't look like much, but if the goal of model railroading is to have fun (and it is), then this was a great success because we had fun for several months. Eventually we covered it up and moved it to this side to focus on other projects, and in 2004 I tore it down thinking I would start another layout. (That never happened, as plans for moving out of the state kicked in.) But the layout definitely served its purpose as a learning tool and for model railroading fun.

So what did I learn from this that influenced my designs today?

  1. N scale is cool. The whole experience was neat. After this there has never been any question that my dream indoor layout was going to be N scale.
  2. I like very long trains. You don't need a train to be a full scale mile long (33' in N scale) to look like the train is realistically long -- 12' to 16' is usually sufficient depending upon the viewing angle. This is why my current layout standardizes on 12' trains and supports 16' through trains.
  3. This curves thing was more complicated than I realized. I'd always had to build HO layouts with curves classified "sharp" or "very sharp", and now I had a layout that had "broad" and "very broad" curves. But even on the 20" radius curve trains still didn't look realistic going around. This realization led to a full study of the curve problem, and I'll describe this in a future post. It's also why my current iNdoor layout has a 36" minimum radius on the main line.
  4. I like modern trains. This was the first time I got into modern container cars, autoracks, etc., and I found them very cool. By contrast 1940s stock cars and reefers aren't so interesting to me. I didn't finalize on the modern era for a layout back in 2002, but by 2004 I had done so because of this.
  5. Digital (DCC) control was a must have for my future layouts. I'd never tried cab control before. My first two layouts only supported one engine at a time and my third layout used Marklin digital control. I used cab control with two cabs and common rail wiring. This wasn't hard to set up, but it was more work than wiring for DCC. However, running trains with cab control involved a lot of manual overhead and was something that the kids had trouble mastering. In addition, I missed having the train lights stay on when the train stopped.
  6. I like double track with trains passing and lots of traffic. So my current layout is double-tracked with heavy traffic.
  7. Good track laying is a must. At first all my locomotives were four axle diesel. When I added a six axle diesel I had to rework many of the rail joints, and then again after I got a steam engine. It's worth it to practice and redo as needed until you get the technique right, and to plan the layout design to facilitate quality laying and maintenance of track.
  8. The 2-3% grades were getting old. All my layouts, except the very first with my dad, used grades to gain elevation and to justify having a lot of track in a compact space. I'd begun to just assume that I'd always build mountain railways. However, on this layout more than one item of rolling stock broke because it rolled down hill and fell off the layout. In addition, putting trains on a sloping track can be a pain. So, I'd begun to think about city layouts with 1% or less grades, and that is where I ended up.

After this layout was torn down I spent some time designing possible N scale layouts ... each one helping me narrow down what I'd do for my ultimate dream layout. I'll cover that in a future post.

Design influences: through the eyes of a child

I mentioned before that my third layout was put into storage after I had to give up the space due to the arrival of our second child. Even before that I really stopped any work (or play) on that layout after our first child was born at the end of 1993. Between 1993 and 2002 I did no layout work (with two special exceptions, as noted below) because children just kept coming -- 4 in all -- the last one born in 2000. But just because I didn't have space or time for a layout didn't mean I didn't have time for trains -- only now my train interest was tied in with the children's. Call those my "Thomas the Tank Engine" years .... and although my kids are no longer Thomas fans, those years influenced how I designed the layouts I'm building today.

Kids and trains just seem to go together. Yes, Thomas is part of that, and I read those books to every one of our kids, and watched the videos and bought the toys. The kids also loved other train videos and lots of other train toys:


They also loved trips to train museums, and I was happy to oblige. We saw every train museum or attraction within a 4 hour drive of San Jose, California, with many trips especially to Sacramento. We rode many tourist trains -- from the very authentic to the built-for-tourists, like in Nevada City. We also had "Saturday trips with Dad" every week since early 1996, and once every month or two I'd make that a trip on the Caltrain "double decker train" -- usually to a stop where we could have ice cream and lunch then come back.

For the kids who were really interested (usually mostly my son) I'd make trips to the Santa Clara Depot model railroad and watch any activity in the freight yard. He'd get so excited to see any train go by -- as I used to be at his age.

For toys I focused initially on the wooden Brio/Thomas/copy trains. We still have a very large bin of them in the basement and get them out when we have younger visitors. Interestingly, when I build a layout for the visiting youngsters our oldsters will spend a lot of time playing with it as well. ;)

Later my son's interest in trains was so strong that he asked for, and got, a Bachmann HO set for Christmas. Here he is enjoying that gift at age 4:


He enjoyed it so much that I dug up my old HO trains from my first and second layouts, which I'd somehow hauled around with me for all those years. As i worked with my old HO and his new HO trains I learned that a lot had changed over the years. My old brass rails and couplers were antiques. I visited a train shop to get replacement couplers and parts/oil for the old locos and was amazed that progress in the hobby. I built my son a 4x8 table, as my Dad had for me, and put it in the garage with a dust cover. The layout was easier to set up than my old one had been because of the roadbed track.

I watched as my son made the same discoveries I'd made about trains. The fun, yes, and also the frustrations of a small layout in a dark, dusty environment. We visited the train shop from time to time and began looking longingly at the LGB displays. Eventually my wife bought me a starter set for my birthday and I added a few cars and track, including switches. We put it on the back deck and had fun with it.

A few years later I was given a large gift certificate to the train shop from some co-workers in appreciation of something I'd done, and used it to buy more/better large scale stuff including an LGB Mogul. I still didn't have room for the outdoor layout so we built a temporary one using sections of painted plywood. This worked okay and provided quite a bit of fun. Here's my son playing with it in the back yard:


However, I still dreamed of having the space to build a permanent layout. Alas, while our yard was sizable (9900 s.f.) by local standards, it was 100% full of kid play areas (as the above picture shows).

Eventually in 2002 my son, then 6, began setting up a ladder in the garage and climbing up to look at the Märklin layout that was in storage. He would lift up a corner of the dust cover and sit and gaze longingly at it for hours, literally. After this persisted I called a friend who came over and we took it down and got it going again, moving Daniel's 4x8 HO layout board into the vacated storage spot. Daniel loved it and I had fun with it too. We used it for several months until I decided to start the 4th layout, which I'll cover in my next "design influences" post.

So, what did I learn from all this kid interaction that influenced the design of my current layouts? Two things:

  • Remember the COOL factor. Kids like things that are cool, and this is usually what attracted us to the hobby in the first place. But sometimes as adults we forget that.

    My son commented that he loved the Marklin layout because of the changing levels, the bridges over tracks, and the switches. He also loved the steam engine best because of the side rods. You know what? That's what I loved as a kid, too. But as an adult I was becoming overly influenced by others in the hobby who insisted on things like fidelity to the prototype and being as realistic as possible. In the process I tended to give up some of the "cool" things, as in: "they didn't have steam anymore in the year I model, so there are no steam engines on my layout" or "I love Famous-Passenger-Train-X, but I can't included it because it never stopped at the city I model". This isn't to say a pure prototype model railway isn't something great to acheive, but there is a balance. Both of the model RRs I'm working on now have plenty of "cool".


  • Include kids in the experience. When kids experience joy with something that you have created you experience their joy too. I understand some model railroaders don't want kids near their layouts because kids admittedly can create a lot of hassles, and if not supervised can cause a lot of damage. But I am making my layouts very much kid accessible. Now this won't mean a free-for-all. I've shown the N-scale layout to my kids' friends and made sure they understood the "don't touch" rule before they even enter the layout room. At the same time, I also set up the train control system to make it easy for kids to participate. Finally, I made sure the lower level is at a kid friendly height. My own kids aren't all that interested any more in the indoor railroad (they love helping outdoor however, and 3 of them had a blast at last summer's Garden Railway convention), but they still participate, and will probably do more as we move to the scenery phase.
In my next post on design influences I'll talk about the 4th layout, which was a temporary layout for the purpose of learning N scale.

The trains they are a-runnin'

Yep, the goal of getting trains running again on Saturday was met. Here is my daughter Laura at the controls of the new Bachmann DDA40X on the layout:



Lots of things, mostly little tasks, had to be done to get to this stage. The final feeder wires were connected last night. Today I got the power cabinet in place with new rollers (more on that in a later post) and ran the remainder of the Auto Reverse (AR) busses from the staging to the cabinet. All the power components, including the PM42 AR device, had been mothballed when I tore down the old staging in December, 2008, and were put up again in the power cabinet. The wiring is still considered temporary, as I want to operate for a bit before I decide the final arrangement of components in the power cabinet. I also had a few leftover wiring and track issues to take care of.

Then I cleaned the track and began running my most reliable DCC engines. The loop from the upper tier staging to lower tier staging and back is just under 190', or about 6 scale miles. There are a small number of track tuning issues I encountered, but far fewer than expected. The AR sections worked perfectly, as did all but one of the Atlas switches.

Over the next weeks I'll run more trains, adding cars and introducing more locomotives from my roster, and fix any track or rolling stock issues as I go.

Meanwhile, I have a host of other projects to start work on. One key one is to finish up the power cabinet. I probably want to add a couple shelves and make the wiring more permanent. I also want to order something for power district circuit breaking, and separate PD-1 (the lower staging) from the rest of the layout. I also need to reinstall the Digitrax ports along the front of the staging, where they used to be with the old staging, and fix some old bugs with the Loconet bus. In other words, there is still alot of general electrical work to do.

Another project is to start automating the switches. Another is to start building the track that will connect the middle tier staging to the layout. And somewhere in all that I want to start adding scenery.

So I'm not sure what to do next. But with trains running while I work, whatever I choose to do next will be even more fun.

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Lower tier wiring near completion

Turns out there were 26 pairs of feeder wires needed for the remaining lower tier, including 5 on the Auto-Reverse track. By last night I'd sized, soldered in place, and labeled all the pairs of feeder wires. But none were connected to the terminals. Today I completed the Auto-Reverse wiring, including re-routing the A-R bus wires to a permanent location, and connected 10 of the 21 remaining pairs to terminals.

So, I should have the wiring for the lower tier complete tomorrow. I won't be quite ready to run trains yet. During the process of rebuilding the staging area I've tested track using temporary power set-ups. Now, however, it's time to move to the permanent power setup. I'll be using a power cabinet, described in my first post on wiring. I'll put the power components, including the auto-reverse devices, into the cabinet and wire them up appropriately. At that point it will be time for track cleaning (figure an hour, unless I can recruit some help) and running trains. I'm thinking we should be doing this by Saturday afternoon.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Lower tier finished less wiring

Today I anchored the north side of the lower tier alcove bridge, then put down the rest of the track:



If I have time I'll start on the wiring tonight. There are approximately 25-30 pairs of feeder wires to hook up. I think if I had dedicated time I'd probably average about 6-9 pairs per hour, but usually I get only short windows of time to do layout work, so I'm not sure how long it will take.

I have now used up all my Atlas code 80 flex track stock and have very few switches (2) and rerailer tracks (7?) left. I'll need to order more in order to finish the hidden layout track that connects to the middle tier, so I should make a point of sending out a track order in the next week or so.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Lower tier switches in place

More track laying today, I now have completed the lower tier staging through the remaining switches:



The various boxes lying on the track are used as flat weights to hold the track in place while the glue dries.

Getting close to done with the lower tier. I have a little bit of woodwork to do at the north end of the alcove bridge (currently that side is supported by a lone nail, it needs to be properly anchored), and a little bit more track to lay to connect the lower tier with the main layout. After that I'll wire the new lower tier track. At that point it will be ready for cleaning and once again running trains. Target for running trains again is still Saturday. The wiring task is takes a lot of time.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

A Productive Weekend

After finishing up the middle tier staging yesterday I got a lot done today on the lower tier:



Progress today included: measuring and cutting the plywood subroadbed; installing the subroadbed, including some shims at the far end because of the plywood thickness problem I mentioned during the middle tier construction; added the blue roadbed; and put down about 36' of track. The new track has not yet been wired. In addition I've also finished the Visio of the middle tier wiring diagram and prepped the remaining lower tier switches.

I'm now working with all new material again, instead of reusing track and wire from the first failed staging attempt. This helps speed things along -- more than I thought it would. At this rate I should be able to complete the lower tier this week.

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Addendum to Atlas Switch Prep Procedure

Last spring I wrote a post on how I prepare Atlas code 80 #6 switches for use in staging. As I was finishing up the middle tier I ran out of the switches I'd bought back in 2006 and started using the switches I bought late last year.

I am happy to report that Atlas has improved the switches since 2006. The frog is a lot cleaner and the area where the point rails meet the closing rails (the red circle in that post) seems to have been re-engineered to be almost perfect out-of-the-box. I found that switch prep was a lot smoother as filing was not needed for those areas.

The other huge plus is that the straight switch rail is now nearly straight, instead of being slightly curved away from the diverging route.

Unfortunately I also found that the outside point rail doesn't seem to close as nicely against the outside rail (the green circle in the previous post). Previously I rarely saw a problem with these, but now I may need to file these down in most cases.

Still, the net is quite an improvement.

Middle tier staging complete

Finished up the middle tier track today. The middle tier is not yet connected to the main layout as I haven't run the adjacent main layout track yet, but when I do the staging is ready:



The middle tier track on the left is the return track (also the auto-reverse track). I'll complete that when I it's time to connect the middle tier to the main layout.

Speaking of the main layout, here is the first picture of that which I've published on the blog:



To better understand this picture I refer you back to the early posts about the iNdoor layout design and, to a lesser extent, on general staging requirements. The wooden structure in the middle of the room is "the box", referred to in the first post, and is designed to support two levels of layout in the middle of the room. Otherwise you see the lower level of the layout built all the way around the room. What you can't see in the picture is that track has been laid around "the box" and about half way around the room. You also see that the layout base is blue foam-on-plywood. I'll discuss that in a future post.

My next step is to build the rest of the lower staging.

Friday, January 15, 2010

Back to Modeling

During the week after Christmas, with a little help from my kids, I finally cleaned out my office and train room. The train room, in particular had been a dumping/storage place for a couple years now and had been severely neglected. That's why I avoided photos of the train room itself last year, and just focused on the staging section.

New Years Day I restarted work on the layout and am now nearly complete with the middle tier of staging. I should complete tomorrow then I'll post the latest pics and get started on the lower tier.

So where did the time go the last few months? Well, I didn't get the outdoor bridge much past where I was in the last post, and as a result of not doing any strenuous lifing my rib healed fine by November. Beyond that the time period from mid-October - Christmas was a blur. This is usually the case to a degree, as we have 3 kid birthdays, one mommy birthday, Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Halloween all packed in, plus the usual holiday season events like recitals and plays to attend. This year was even more of a blur than normal due to a work project that required lots of travel and 9 straight 60 hour weeks (including 3 weeks working from home with H1N1) then a two week vacation to Hawaii in early December. The vacation was indeed a nice break, but it required lots of prep time and it also meant that all that other stuff was compressed into an even shorter time window.

So, short story long, no train stuff got done from October 13 to December 26. Looking ahead I want to be realistic about the time I'll have available and the time it takes to get stuff done (I'm usually way too optimistic on both fronts). So, thinking about the iNdoor layout I'd like to have the lower tier complete by February 7 (3 weeks from now) at which point I will once again be able to run trains roundy-round across the main layout and between the top and bottom tiers. Initially just getting trains going consistently will probably require a week just of track cleaning and ironing out track bugs. From mid-February until end April I'd like to do two things. First: get the electrical cabinet all set up and wired. (The cabinet has been assembled already by my son). Second: get scenery at least well under way on the section of the layout adjacent to staging. I'd like to have enough momentum built up that I won't completely ignore the indoor layout during the summer.

For the outdoor layout April, May and June will be about a) normal spring forest maintenance, including removing pine beetle trees, fighting again with the scrub oak, and doing some more tree thinning, and b) completing the bridge rails, garden pathways, planters, and electrical for the garden. That may be overly ambitious, depending on how many trees need to come down, but I hope to make it more acheivable by deferring the planned gazebo to 2011. If I get all that done by end June that means I can start on the roadbed and track in July with the goal of having a well built working loop with a few sidings by the end of the summer. During the track-laying months I'll also try to polish up the remaining work involving the pond and waterfall.